St. Augustine to Savannah

Hopefully you were able to see the unique conjunction of the moon, Venus and Saturn on December 1st. The two planets have been hanging out with one another in the southwestern sky with the coming of winter. The moon has joined them and that Monday they were particularly close. I made it to my lodging in St. Augustine just in time to catch some video of the event.

Some twenty years before the British established their first settlement at Roanoke and forty before their first permanent at Jamestown, the Spanish set foot in Florida, making St. Augustine the oldest continually inhabited settlement in United States. This is my second time down in these parts. Remember the old fort, of seashell packed brick that withstood the guns of Ogelthorpe's fleet? The narrow Spanish cobblestone streets, with second-floor balconies? This time I visited the ground that JFK called the most hallowed next to that of the Vatican. This was the place where the very first mass was held, where Admiral Menendez hoisted the first cross. Now there stands an enormous golden one and near the same grounds are a small chapel and cemetery plot.

For eats I stopped by a place called Cafe Spain. I must have beat the rush as I was the only one in there. For just ten bucks I had pork in tomato sauce, served with yellow rice.


I got a complimentary ride on a tourist trolley. I think this is a good way to get an overview of a place, then, you can go afterwards on your own to visit those places that stand out to you. One place that I had only a glimpse of last time was Flagler College. Now, after walking the grounds and having time to absorb the architecture on a sunny day, I believe to be one of the most striking institutions I have ever seen. Originally known as Ponce de Leon Hotel, it was built in 1885 by the industrialist Henry Flagler. Now it is one of the best liberal arts schools on the east coast. If you got kids or thinking of attending college yourself, do give this place a look. I was envious of the kids that got to call this place their alma mater!

The British public house that I had seen last time in the old village and hoped to visit was closed for the day. I more or less strolled around to get shots and then made my way out.

In the suburban areas of St. Augustine, which were free from both the homeless inhabitants of downtown and also any historical character, I had few shoots at Golf Resorts. In addition to the fleets of Lexus cars (would that be Lexi?) I've noticed a bumper sticker that reads 'Another Democrat for McCain - Palin.' At first I scoffed at the idea, but then I saw another such bumper sticker. These must be the last remnants of the Dixiecrats.

After a northern jaunt to Amelia Island, I made my way still further north to one of my favorite cities, Savannah, Georgia. The light rain had dissipated and the sun poked through a bit. There are many reasons why this is a favorite. But one of the reasons is that this is one of the great southern cities we did not completely destroy during the Civil War. Unlike Atlanta or Columbia, which we burnt to the ground, Savannah was given by General Sherman to President Lincoln as a Christmas gift. What this means is that the history that predates American rule still exists. You can walk down streets full of Georgian architecture. With the Live Oaks, Spanish Moss, and iron fences, you can see this place just as we once did, and imagine yourself British once again. Even after the American Revolution Georgia maintained much of its Tory sentiment. But it also recognizes foreigners Lafayette and Pulaski (who fought for the separating Americans) as some of its most revered heroes!

Another thing that is splendid about Savannah is the high degree of Southern character and atmosphere. If you've seen Forrest Gump then you have seen Savannah. Remember that bench he spends most of his time on in the movie? That is in Forsyth Park, one of the many beautiful, bench-laden parks you can find downtown. You don't really experience Savannah, nor do you really experience the South unless you sit down on one of those benches. Now, just sit and appreciate that nice breeze, tickled by the tendrils of moss, the twisted tree branches whose bark looks like the crackled top of cooling brownies, the thick green blades of Augustine grass and the sincere smiles of the passers-by. Ah, Georgia!

The weather here is chilly enough. I keep my fleece and jacket on most of the time and my nose cold enough to have a constant drizzle. The sun has made it out about half the time, but it feels of a Georgian winter. Lows are in the high 30's and highs are in the high 50's. There can be a prevailing damp chill that doesn't leave you, as you walk down the brick alleyways and under the park canopies.

The colonial cemetery is pretty special. Buried here are Revolutionary soldiers and notable individuals from Savannah's past. One striking feature is the number of broken tombstones lined up along the wall. I've heard story that this dates back from when the Union soldiers knocked them down to have room for their horses. I've yet to have this confirmed as I wish to see some proper research into this remarkable desecration.

Last night I took the walking ghost tour and listened to some pretty fun ghost stories. There was a lot of death down here. There were many cemeteries that have been built on top of. There were was one hotel, converted to a Union hospital that had body parts and deceased soldiers buried in the floorboards. It wasn't until the 1990's that they discovered some of these! There is also a lot of history here, colonial architecture with tall thin windows and dark iron gates and fences, drooping tree branches and foliage, all of which make this place perfect for a haunted experience. It is also fascinating to see how many people down here believe they have had an experience with a ghost. Well, I didn't see anything, but have to admit that I did not tempt the ghosts too much, and put minimal effort into looking through the window of one house with a particularly nasty reputation. Call me chicken? Perhaps. They say the ghosts often appear when you disrespect them. I don't go out of my way to do that!

Today was a sunny day and I ventured to Tybee Island, about 40 minutes east of Savannah. It has this great big lightouse with a prominent black band in its middle. It also has a long beach and, even though it is winter, people still visit it, bundled up in winter clothing. Many of the businesses along the pier have closed for the season. (I'll include a pic later.)

On my way back I made a brief stop at Fort Pulaski. Named for our Polish hero who protected Savannah from British attacks. It served purpose during the Civil War and had a few Confederate re-enactors showing the crowds how their equipment and guns functioned.

Tomorrow it's a compressed day of shoots and then a day or so before I return. I'll try to get you a picture of the church that appears in Forest Gump. Forsyth Park is the one where the park bench sat. It's an enormous park with a great big fountain in it's middle. I'll leave you with a picture of that.