Old Baldy Himself

Before leaving Fort Fisher, I had a chance for a quick peruse of the museum, remains of the fort and the natural features of the area. As you exit the ferry and continue on up the island, you first see the trees, immensely flagged by the wind. As you can see at the edge of many open expanses such as oceans and plains, the growing things around it must contend with the wind. The continual blowing wind forces plants to grow away from it. So, this ‘flagging’ effect makes trees look as though they are leaning away from the wind even when it doesn’t blow. This was very noticeable here and I couldn’t help but be somewhat entranced by the organic pose.

I was also able to take a quick peak at the museum. Fairly small, it had some remnants of the Confederate artifacts and recreations of the battle which occurred there. On the little diorama which was laid out on a table, red, blue and white lights helped you to visualized the progress of the battle as it was narrated to you. Essentially, the Confederates, who had manned the elbow shape defense of the coast, were bombarded by Union ships. Then, the Federal troops landed and slowly enveloped the island. As was said earlier, upon the fall of the fort, the main Confederate shipping to rail network was overrun, leading to the end of the Confederacy.

I looked out longingly at the remains of the hills before me. Once the defensive structures of the south, they were now fenced off to prevent further erosion. But I had a ferry to catch and a shoot to do.

Both William Teach (Blackbeard) and Stede Bonnete (The Gentleman Pirate) used Bald Head Island as a base for pirate attacks. But after both were caught and killed by the British in the same year, the mighty age of piracy came to a close.

Situated at the mouth of the Cape Fear river, this island has a long history. It has played an important part in colonial imperialism, the American Revolution and the Civil War. Still considered tricky waters to navigate, with the surging currents and hidden shoals, this island sits in a significant place.

I unloaded my luggage at the ferry crossing and parked my car. Meeting my guide, we ferried across from Southport. As we were about to enter the channel, the barge before us became grounded. But after some urging, its motors thrust it forward and we followed.

Gathering my luggage and gear I was given a tour of the island before my shoot.

For transportation, people use golf carts. There are two major roads running its length. One, called Federal, runs through a forested canopy of live oak, loblolly pine, slash pine, yaupon holly, and red cedar. All around you is the sound of frogs and crickets. The other road takes you down the coast in a curvy fashion. You get a good view of the Cape Code’eque houses that line the coast and feel the ocean breeze upon you.

There is the feeling of wealth for sure. After all, who else could afford to own a house or berth their yacht in the marina. But the island is refreshing in the sense that you can escape people with ease. Many of the houses are tucked down lanes with wooden signs with names like Stede Bonnete or Muscadine Wynd. I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many interpretive historical signs in such close proximity of one another. Approximately half the island is reserved as a natural sanctuary.

My shoot allowed me to spend a great deal of time alone in a large shore front house. Wanting to do the island right, I tried to make sure I got as many good shots as I could, but felt that so many more could be got. I tried to capture the other segments of the island the best I could and then head back to my lodging.

Where I was staying was in a cute little cottage right on the marina. The view of the back was of the sail boats and yachts. In the front was parked the golf cart which was the customary transportation for each property.

This stay was special in the sense that I was able to remain for two nights. That meant that the following day would consist of area footage and doing things I needed to do. While I did spend a good deal of time trying to get a hold of California contacts, discovering which were obsolete, finding lodging for days with none comp’ed, planning flights and car rentals, I was also able to shoot the island.

The first destination on the island was the large lighthouse called ‘Old Baldy.’ Built in 1817, this lighthouse is one you can climb to the top and from this perch, take a look around the entire island. From the top you can view the termination of Cape Fear. Your imagination could take you back through eras. Think of the first Spanish and British that probed up these waterways in search for the path to the Pacific Ocean. Watch as the Patriots engaged in there first amphibious attack against the British garrison. Finally, watch the blockade runners shoot from the mouth of their homeland, in desperate attempts to keep their people fighting, and sneaking through the Union barricades. It would be totally cool to pass a hurricane up there as well!

I stopped at the island market. Expecting the prices to be double what they were on land, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the difference were not that noticeable. I decided I would grab myself my next few meals here. After all, once I was greeted by the bottles of New Zealand Oyster Bay wines at the doorway, I saw this as a good omen. Tonight, I would be romancing myself. Some Sauvignon Blanc, French bread, hummus, ham, havarti cheese and grapes. And oh, our friend Texas Pete, is a product of North Carolina.

As I toured the island I ran into a naturalist intern more than willing to practice in her public interpretation. She was also willing to do a little on camera instruction bit and so I was able to fill up the last few minutes of my area footage video tape.

Tomorrow I’m looking to head to Wilimington to do an area bit at the WWII battleship USS North Carolina. I have to make sure to give my grandpa a call and get his exact 40mm and 14 inch positions during the war. Though they might be different class ships, I thought I might get some idea of what he did and where he was. Just think, this ship fought in the same engagements as he did.

Time to re-gather gear together and enjoy some last moments of relaxation. Texas, here we come!