Diese Alte und Neuen Kirche

"Canyon Lake was quite pretty in the early morning," I thought as I panned the camera out from the deck and into Turkey Cove. It was my last day here, before I headed north to Fredericksburg. The highlights of the Texas shoots had to do mostly with being in the outdoors. My shoot the day before was a bit different because it was in an RV park. One could dismiss it this as “hick-ish” or something such, with the boar head hanging in the main office and the trailers parked underneath the oaks. I instead thought of it as refreshing. They used the natural lay of the land, did not cut down vegetation unnecessarily and offered great tent ground, shaded RV areas and little cottages, without any fuss. Mostly importantly, the people were good people. But this day I was at a simple condominium-type lodging and applauded the owner on the great view.

There were scores of emaciated little white tail deer all over. I counted 14 in one group. They scavenge for food and are protected by the government and managed I'm not sure how.

The hills and roads that curve through them are easy to lose your way on. It is mostly residential and the routes do little loops. It was a little fun, climbing the steep inclines that would be a newbie clutch driver’s worst nightmare, and there were some great views. All the same, I was very happy to be on my way.

First, I made a stop in New Braunsfels at Doug’s BBQ. That sliced beef BBQ sandwich was the best of the Bar-B-Que that I had in Texas. Doug had been in the business for years and said he wouldn’t serve anything that he wouldn’t eat himself. He continued to talk about the struggles of the restaurant business and also how each of the businesses depended on the favor’s of one another, especially in the age of WalMart. His most dependable employees were both elderly women, one in her 70’s and one in her 80’s. “Kids just don’t want to work these days.”

Fredericksburg
Fredericksburg is a historic town which is quite alive. It has scores of historical buildings, all Texas limestone and most of them with historical registry interpretive plates and thoroughly maintained. It proudly displays the German heritage of the town in the architecture, colors, food and efficient accessibility.

It was settled by liberally-minded German settlers in the mid 1800’s. The area became a safe-haven for Germans, pro-Unionists and abolitionists. This liberal character is noticeable in the impressive organic co-op, non-Starbucks cafes, and ‘live and let live’ atmosphere. The latter, however, I find to be more of a Western trait. It is distinctive from the North in that there need be no qualifiers, no explanations, for what you do and who you are. Whatever floats your boat!

Being I had some time before I checked into the ranch, I thought I’d make the half an hour drive to a nature park called Enchanted Rock.

One knock on Texas is that everything seems to be privately owned! You might see an awesome rock out-cropping, dense oak grove or creek bed that called for examination. But one quick look showed you the barbed wired blocking off access.

As the track weaved in characteristic Hill Country fashion, the gigantic pink granite behemoth began to show itself! Distinguishing itself from the surrounding khaki-colored limestone, this volcanic dome would not let you forget it was once a great engine of magma! Driving closer I got the knee-rocking anticipation of climbing to the summit! Like a water dog on a path to retrieve fowl from a swamp, I whined and was out the door.

You pay the small entrance fee at the Conservation Corps office and park in one of two lots. This area was very well maintained but did not feel restrictive in the least! The park is so popular with climbers and the like that it sometimes shuts down. But this Texas heat must have been keeping people at bay! Perfect! The beauty of extremes in temperature is that the masses choose not to venture out in it. I highly recommend that those are the times to venture out! If you can handle it, that is. I was told that the current heat of this week brought the temperatures as hot as the hottest days of the last Texas summer!

There were paths with arrows that pointed to the top of Enchanted Rock. I chose to be a little more adventurous. Through years of gravity, great boulders of rock had rolled down the slopes, creating tremendous boulder fields. This seemed a more exciting path!

I weaved through the cacti and relished in the giant sun, bringing every color to its most vivid and producing thermal currents upon which vulture after vulture soared over your head. The further I got, the more inventive I was having to be. When I have gear, I will sometimes leave it below, scout a path to check its practicality and then return to retrieve it.

The video camera comes with me, everywhere I go. I always feel compelled to capture this and capture that. It is fun, but often means that a journey anywhere will take more time than it would otherwise. I've a included a wee "action shot" as I'm always "working."

Some passages necessitated crawling. While I’d rather climb over, this was just not possible at times. I’d sometimes stop to take pictures, do video spots, get a drink, enjoy the rocks and succulent plants and then repack everything and begin again.

In one fissure, I found I had to first push my gear through and then crawl behind it. As the boulder sloped off to the right, it was necessary to keep my bag to the left to prevent it sliding down into the vegetated slope below. It was not life-threatening in the least but could just present itself as a major inconvenience should something go the opposite of my intentions.

Once through I had to scale more boulders and leave the gear behind. Alright! If I had all day I would continue this way. But I was turning this 20 minute climb into something that would probably take an hour. But boy would it be that much more fun! However, my lodging appointment called and I had expensive gear with me.

Towards the top you reach the dome and climb up it as you would the roof of the Metrodome. As many hikers know, once you reach the crest, you think you will see the top, but instead, more to climb!

The top is often anticlimactic. Beautiful view, cooling wind and level stone beneath you. At the top I was alone except for a couple meditating. I kept my distance from Phoenix and Astra and looked about. Even on this bare rock face, little ecosystems would develop in the pockets of the rock. Yucca, cacti, grasses and little trees blew in the wind. Amongst them was a little black swallow tail butterfly, quite enjoying himself, fluttering into the wind, then tucking back into the shelter of the grasses, and then fluttering back again. I laughed with the little guy for a short bit.

Time was calling and I descended. On my way down I remarked at the layers of rock that had fractured and slid down the slope. I could only guess that this occurred from episodic lava flows million of years ago, cooling upon the surface of its predecessor below. Much like the chocolate casing on an ice cream cone.

The Back 40
I entered the code and the metal gate, with long horn silhouette at its center, swung wide. The proprietor met me on the drive and we conversed. At the conclusion of our convo, I asked her what eating establishments were her favorites. She mentioned one of the Bavarian restaurants and also asked if I had ever heard the song Luckenbach Texas. “Why certainly!” Well, on Wednesday they have open pickin. That settled it! I was heading there. She mentioned that there is coffee cake awaiting me in the fridge and sped off back to her house. I dropped off my gear in my cottage and head to Luckenbach.

Luckenbach

The town of Luckenbach is very small. If you were not purposefully looking for it, you would pass it. But I saw the road with its namesake and eased down. You came into a shady grove with roosters crowing and two corrugated metal shacks. One was a dance hall, the other was a bar. The bar was full of paraphernalia of all kinds. Collections of trucker hats, license plates, police patches, and bumper stickers. All of which seemed to be aging for many a year. Covering much of the walls were autographed pictures from musicians and celebrities. The most notable were one of Waylon Jennings and Willie Nelson, easily blending in with the rest.

There was a very, very casual feel in the place. It had a service window awning pushed open to the people seated outdoors. There were two gentleman trading tunes on acoustic guitars and a small perimeter of people appreciating the time. A black and white dog named Buck sat under a table.

I had a seat at the bar, ordering two beers for myself and one for one for the already sudds crooner. They sung cowboy tunes and Willy tunes, as well as some of their own. And although neither of them knew the tune Big River well enough to play it, they loved it and gave their props to Minnesota.

Being at the center of this was kind of like being at the last scene of every Dukes of Hazard episode you’ve ever seen. If you’re my age, you know exactly what I mean!

It was cozy. Open to the early evening sun, the roosters, the happy regulars and newcomers, one feels right at home. However, I knew it was time to go when I was approached by a woman from New Jersey. She saw my camera and had to let me know that although she didn’t get to take pictures as a ‘job’ her’s were something that my work should definitely see. At that moment I just couldn’t happen to find my business card for some reason (wink, wink). I finished my Lonestar, tipped my hat to the gents and then head back to Fredericksburg.

In town I ordered some Suerbraten, Spatzle and a German Beer, to get some authentic coverage of this establishment and pay my respects to the ethnicity of the first settlers. Best go German!

The ranch was nearing night as I checked in. Packing a pipe I sauntered down an old creek bed, with the outline of the barbwire fence pressed up against the blue horizon. Fireflies were beginning to bespeckle the night. I walked to the further edge of the property, on the banks of the one of the ranch’s ponds. There happened to be a hammock stretched out between two oaks. The smoke rose up through the branches and the sounds of frogs, crickets and livestock performed a Texas lullaby.

Aufwierdersehen Fredericksburg

I spent my time shooting the last property. At my own pace, I shot the old German cottages. While this was an actual homestead, with a small house built in 1860 and surrounded by more recent additions, they all followed the traditional layout. There was a living room with a hearth, a pantry area and a loft with a bed. Most were constructed from old limestone bricks.

In town I hit the old and new Catholic Church. Both having two of the most respectable towers in the town, they were very easy to find. I went into the old, turned the very old latch of the wooden door and saw the plain white walls, simple blue stained glass window and sparse alter. It was simple and what I was expecting. I knelt with other parisioners, said three Hail Mary's and thought about how these kneelers had nothing but some fabric covering them. Not at all comfortable to the knees.

I genuflected and departed. On the way out I caught site of a "Prayer for Rain," something that made me all the more aware of how crucial water is down here.

Next door was the newer church. Finding the door open, I entered. My eyes widened and heart beat deeply. I was not expecting this. Ornate iconography everywhere. Statues, intricate and illustrious stained glass and highly vaulted ceilings enscripted with Latin. Once again I said my three Hail Mary's and this time visited the statues in the front. Saint Anthony stood at the front, next to Mary. Hmm, more resemblances with my namesake! Ciao, Santo Antonio de Padua! Aufwierdersehen Fredericksburg!

On my way out of town I stopped at the Admiral Nimitz & National Museum of the Pacific War. It celebrated the man committed to a life in Navy since he was a teenager. He was opposed to the use of the atomic bomb and while frustrated that MacArthur was given the fame and honorary position of handling Japan's surrender, he made certain that the Navy and Marines
were given equal attention and credit in the procedings. The museum mirrors these wishes. In it you will find a plaque honoring every single vessel of the U.S. fleet. He wanted every man that served under him to receive due recognition. There is also a Japanese Peace Garden, donated by Japan and a thorough coverage of the Pacific campaigns.

I will very much miss Texas and glad that I will be returning at some point soon!