Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Bunyan and Babe

Northland Minnesota

It was a fine 5-hour drive to Bemidji. I was fortunate that the only place I've left something behind (my glasses) would be somewhat on the way. I stopped in Nevis and then continued on to Bemidji.

Following my shoots I spent some time in Cass Lake. This town is a popular stop on Highway 2 and from here, people hit the surrounding lakes and Chippewa State Forest. It began as a logging community and the population boomed to 7,000. While logging trucks can still be seen carrying off their loads, the population has sunk back down. The Ojibwa presence is very noticable. The Indians were herded into White Earth and Leech Lake reservation. The last violent episode occurring at Sugar Point (where I stayed the last trip), when we went to go arrest a tribal leader under false charges. As the American tradition goes, we forced them off and got some good timber land for logging. Itasca State Park was created under similar circumstances.

There is a logging museum, Forest Department offices, gas stations and an old main strip now torn up and under construction. I explored by driving around and stopped into the 371 Cafe for some local time, having a nice little chat with the owner.

The rain did not help me to have an upbeat view of the place. I saw a lot of poverty. There was a treatment center, an Ojibwa legal aid building, and two diabetes assistance facilities. There were casinos and I have to break my tradition of never entering one. Now I have a reason to explore!

Throughout my examination echoes of cliche comments played in my ears. Those of how rich Indians get off casinos, their tax breaks negatively impacting everyone else and the new one I heard, "Indians don't feed their dogs, so they wander in dangerous packs." While there is some truth to many statements, it just leaves me wondering what people would do without the Indian as whipping boy and how long before I return to doing something to remedy it.

Bemidji is a college town. This helps to give it a more ‘hip’ air as the tastes of its inhabitants are reflected in the offerings. In a walk through the downtown you’ll see that they embrace the arts, or, at least have a very high tolerance for it. At many of the corners you’ll find art sculptures. They have everything from an iron bust of General Patton to an avant garde character depicting ‘time.’ The Paul Bunyan Playhouse has performances in the Chief Theater and you’ll find more than one art gallery.

Still there is the old town feel and toursity ‘hokyness’ that many people hunger for. At the entrance to town you can find the two most notable figures within Bemidji, Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox. Constructed for the 1937 winter carnival, these have stood there ever since! They were featured on the cover of Life magazine and gave rise to the popular Minnesota tradition of folk statues.

The MadeRite café howled of yesteryear. Of course, I had to eat there. “Serving Sandwiches that are Satisfying” they offer a burger that is basically a large White Castle slider except for the meat is loose, like in sloppy joe, save the ketchup.

There is a Ben Franklin and other such drugstores and many an historic building has yet to see the wrecking ball.

The college campus seems very inviting. On the shores of Lake Bemidji (so-named from the Ojibwa word meaning “cut-across,” referring to the way the Ol’ Mississip cuts through the lake) the campus has life even in the summer season. The Bemidji Courthouse is a pretty building. All dark red brick with what must be a statue of ‘Justice’ shining in gold at its top.

The weather here has been downcast. It hovered around the mid-fifties with wind and rain for parts of the day, though the sun has attempted to make some appearance. We are in the north and that becomes more evident the further the latitudes ascend. It still is kind of a bummer though, and casts and gloom on many things. I’ve experienced mostly sunny weather in these voyages and so this would seem to contradict previous luck.

So, attempting to put both weather and previous knowledge of the north aside, and attempt shall be made to not be jaded.

Down time has involved making appointments for the next venture, studying the regions and working on where I want the road to take me!

Tonight I want to hit a brilliant looking Irish pub before I head back to lodge in Tenstrike, which, according to the MHS was named either for the bowling ball which knocks down all pins or from the statement of a prospering trader. For more Minnesota place name information, you must check out: Minnesota Place Names!

And oh, my blogs come less frequently and without pictures because about 1 in 10 places I visit have internet connections, and poor ones at that. Otherwise, I’d do more!

To Baudette and a stone’s throw from Canada I go, come the morrow!

Happy Birthday Ringo and goodbye to the Space Shuttle in 2010!

1 Comments:

Blogger Jackie said...

I really enjoy reading your blogs. I grew up in Northern Minnesota Grand Rapids to be exact, and I miss it so much ever since I moved to Boiling Hot south Texas! Keep up the good work!

July 29, 2008 at 1:31 PM  

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